Brian M.'s Archive

The Bright Side of Black Mountain

By / October 2014

Off limits for decades, a hard-to-reach monastery in northeastern Turkey has become a beacon of religious tolerance.

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In Search of Soup in Budapest

By / October 2014

In the Hungarian capital, writes Brian McKanna, there is a bowl for every occasion, whether a family dinner, a fishing trip, or the morning after a hangover.

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Harvesting a Global Delicacy on the Shores of the Black Sea

By / September 2014

Brian McKanna on Turkey’s hazelnut farmers: “Huseyin, a resident of Yomra in his 70a��s, has been farming hazelnuts on his property his whole life. ‘We call this lazy work,’ he explains, ‘because we only get one harvest a year out of these trees.'”

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Locking Horns in Yusufeli

By / May 2014

In Turkey’s Black Sea region, bull wrestling draws big crowds and big questions. “The bulls ran straight for the men at the entrance,” writes Brian McKanna. “They plowed through the gate, past tables where gendarme ate kebab, into the bazar and up the hill.”

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On a Hotly Contested Border, a Ruin Gets Its Due

By / March 2014

“In the decades after WWI,” writes Brian McKanna, “Ani’s ruins were left to crumble. Vandals raided the churches. Until 2004, visitors had to get special permission from local authorities. Even photographs were banned.”

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Daughters of the Ice

By / January 2014

Brian McKanna on how an unconventional coach is turning a conservative town in northeastern Turkey into a hub for women’s hockey.

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