Turkey

Three Strings for a Song

By / October 2015

Andy Owens profiles Hayri Dev, a Turkish folk musician who has spent a lifetime playing the three-stringed bağlama: “Within five minutes of sitting down on Dev’s back porch in Gökçeyaka, he reaches for his instrument.”

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An Egg and a Stone

By / September 2015

Modern-day Georgians descend into the vale of far northeastern Turkey to experience what remains of Tao-Klarjeti, their medieval kingdom.

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The Women in the Fields

By / August 2015

In Rize, Brian McKanna visits the brave, indefatigable women responsible for Turkey’s summer tea harvest: “‘Are the men lazy?’ I asked. ‘Oh, definitely,’ Serpil said.”

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The Day of the Goat

By / August 2015

Over a breakfast of tomatoes, cheese, olives, bread and hot, black tea, I asked Ergun what he had in mind. He spoke a word I don’t know, kırkım. It was the same word he had used on the phone the night before. “What’s a kırkım?” I asked.

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The Ramadan Drummer

By / July 2015

In Denizli, Ramadan sounds like the banging of Ali Bozdag’s drum: “People hear the sound, turn on the lights and say, ‘Ah, my drummer’s here!’ It helps stir a desire for people to fast.”

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Postcard from Kadikoy

By / June 2015

Ryan Wolf encounters leftist newspaper hawkers, fried sea bass, street mutts, and a Black Sea wind on Istanbul’s Asian side.

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