The Refuge in the Desert

By / April 2018

At the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve in eastern Jordan, oryxes, onagers and other imperiled wildlife species are making a rally, writes Danny Wright.


Playing in the Ruins

By / December 2017

In Amman, a beloved playground becomes a popular tourist attraction. “When the archaeologists came to dig they would leave holes,” Yoseph said. “We had fun playing in the sand piles and refilling their holes.”


City of Mosaics

By / May 2017

In the central Jordanian city of Madaba, the tedious work of restoring ancient mosaics never stops. “Replacing tesserae,” writes Danny Wright, “requires a dichotomous balance of strength and subtlety.”


Memory Songs

By / March 2017

In a refugee camp in Jordan, a Syrian flute helps a displaced shepherd keep the past alive: “It took weeks to learn how to breathe in and blow out at the same time,” Jehad says. “Now I can play nonstop for hours.”


‘We Don’t Sell This’

By / December 2016

In a Jordanian village, the Al Qurashi family has been making olive oil for generations: “Harun dumps the pulp into a pan and massages the mess with his fingers. After a few minutes he scoops up a fist-sized portion and squeezes it between his palms.”


My Grandmother Taught My Mother Who Taught Me

By / October 2016

Nellie Safadi teaches Danny Wright how to make a Jordanian culinary staple: “In Arabic,” she says, “the word mansaf means ‘blow up.’ People eat it so fast.”