Jordan

‘You Have to Start With Coffee’

By / October 2019

In Jordan, as in much of the world, coffee is a symbol of hospitality, but the custom takes on greater intensity in the Arab world. “No matter what you want, you have to start with coffee,” Shahrouri told me. “If you don’t offer coffee to your guests, locals will know you are not a true Jordanian Arab.”

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In Jerash, History and Music Among the Ruins

By / June 2019

North of Amman, the Roman ruins at Jerash have become a major attraction and the site of a popular music festival.

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‘Things Could Get Crazy’

By / December 2018

Outside of Amman, women from the Talbieh refugee camp are dealing with waste one tote at a time

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The Dream of Fluency

By / September 2018

The first year in Amman, I encountered lots of things I didn’t expect. I didn’t expect that my Arabic voice would sound different than my English voice. That people would laugh at me for saying something correctly. That in the same day I would feel the heights of exhilaration and the depths of humiliation.

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‘The Most Important Blessing Is Bread’

By / July 2018

In Amman, writes Heather M. Surls, reverent care for bread is an economic necessity, a religious discipline, and a cultural obsession.

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The Refuge in the Desert

By / April 2018

At the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve in eastern Jordan, oryxes, onagers and other imperiled wildlife species are making a rally, writes Danny Wright.

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