Jordan

The Dream of Fluency

By / September 2018

The first year in Amman, I encountered lots of things I didn’t expect. I didn’t expect that my Arabic voice would sound different than my English voice. That people would laugh at me for saying something correctly. That in the same day I would feel the heights of exhilaration and the depths of humiliation.

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‘The Most Important Blessing Is Bread’

By / July 2018

In Amman, writes Heather M. Surls, reverent care for bread is an economic necessity, a religious discipline, and a cultural obsession.

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The Refuge in the Desert

By / April 2018

At the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve in eastern Jordan, oryxes, onagers and other imperiled wildlife species are making a rally, writes Danny Wright.

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Playing in the Ruins

By / December 2017

In Amman, a beloved playground becomes a popular tourist attraction. “When the archaeologists came to dig they would leave holes,” Yoseph said. “We had fun playing in the sand piles and refilling their holes.”

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City of Mosaics

By / May 2017

In the central Jordanian city of Madaba, the tedious work of restoring ancient mosaics never stops. “Replacing tesserae,” writes Danny Wright, “requires a dichotomous balance of strength and subtlety.”

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Memory Songs

By / March 2017

In a refugee camp in Jordan, a Syrian flute helps a displaced shepherd keep the past alive: “It took weeks to learn how to breathe in and blow out at the same time,” Jehad says. “Now I can play nonstop for hours.”

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