Jordan

City of Mosaics

By / May 2017

In the central Jordanian city of Madaba, the tedious work of restoring ancient mosaics never stops. “Replacing tesserae,” writes Danny Wright, “requires a dichotomous balance of strength and subtlety.”

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Memory Songs

By / March 2017

In a refugee camp in Jordan, a Syrian flute helps a displaced shepherd keep the past alive: “It took weeks to learn how to breathe in and blow out at the same time,” Jehad says. “Now I can play nonstop for hours.”

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‘We Don’t Sell This’

By / December 2016

In a Jordanian village, the Al Qurashi family has been making olive oil for generations: “Harun dumps the pulp into a pan and massages the mess with his fingers. He scoops up a fist-sized portion, squeezes it between his palms.”

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My Grandmother Taught My Mother Who Taught Me

By / October 2016

Nellie Safadi teaches Danny Wright how to make a Jordanian culinary staple: “In Arabic,” she says, “the word mansaf means ‘blow up.’ People eat the dish so fast it looks like it has exploded in every direction.”

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Make Art Not War

By / July 2016

In Amman, writes Danny Wright, graffiti artists are tagging the city’s bland concrete walls, all the while exposing locals to non-traditional forms of expression.

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Hot Water Forever

By / April 2016

Danny Wright visits Jordan’s Hammamat Ma’in: “I sat under the waterfall for ninety minutes. The roar drowned out all other sounds. After a while, I could no longer feel my limbs.”

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