India

Pray for Rain

By / June 2017

In India, writes Robert Smythe, waiting for monsoon season is an exercise in hope and fear: “There is a third reason why Indians pray for rain, a reason that I might crudely describe as the unifying thrill of monsoon season.”

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Faces in the Trees

By / February 2016

Chris Watts searches for the Jarawa people, in the Andaman Islands: “There were warnings about taking pictures. In 2015, some Brits had posted video online. As a result, officials had closed the road for months.”

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Better than Varanasi

By / December 2015

In northern India, a meal made over a dunghill fire turns a detour into an arrival: “The smell of manure and raw meat mixed in the air. I felt sick, and not only to my stomach. This was the opposite of Varanasi.”

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Let Down and Hanging Around on the Hippie Trail

By / April 2015

In the 1960s and 70s, American and European hippies flocked to India’s Anjuna Beach. A half-century later, what remains of the counterculture bastion?

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Pageantry on a Perilous Border

By / December 2014

Every day at the Wagah Border, Indian and Pakistani troops make old tensions new.

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Stomping Grounds: Kodaikanal

By / October 2013

Once again life in this small Indian mountain town has shifted, flowing from field, forest, and workshop down to the food stalls along Observatory Road.

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