Ruth Ingram on a park in Urumqi: “Nobody looks twice at the backwards walkers banging their backs against the trees. Nobody stares at the people standing for long periods on one leg.”
“Fears of encroachment by Han Chinese in Xinjiang,” writes Ruth Ingram, “have produced a conflict of interests where food is a key battleground.”
Debbie Porter writes about the architect Su Nan Chu’s efforts to turn Xining, a city of two million in western China, into an oasis of contemporary art.
A dispatch from Kurban, the most important event on the Uyghur calendar: “Boys receive gifts of plastic kalashnikovs and bullets, a way to take pot shots at Chinese who stray into their Uyghur domain. I try to stay out of the line of fire. ”
Near midnight one night this summer, I walked through the Ladies Market in Hong Kong’s Kowloon district. I say I walked. I hardly moved. Nobody did. The market, even at that late hour, was a crush of people.
In the foothills outside of booming downtown Urumqi, in Northwest China, a much beleaguered Kazakh village clings to the old ways.