Rachel Pieh Jones's Archive

The Voyeur at the Wedding

By / May 2015

“Ia��ve lived so long in Djibouti,” writes Rachel Pieh Jones, “that I rarely feel like a tourist. But it was important for me to be reminded at the wedding that day that I am. That, in some sense, I will never fully blend in.”


Where the Bread Is Hot as Hell

By / April 2015

“There arena��t many muufo (pronounced mofo) ovens in Djibouti City,” writes Rachel Pieh Jones, “Fathia says hers may be the only one. Whatever the case, she isna��t too worried about competition.”


Land of the Red River Hogs

By / March 2015

Rachel Pieh Jones on a dogged veterinarian’s uphill battle to protect Djibouti’s wildlife, from oryx and ostriches to cheetahs and lynx.

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Death by Heartbreak

By / February 2015

Rachel Pieh Jones on the poet who taught Somalis how to love: “Some say Elmi was an idiot, weak. Some say he was a genius, the ideal lover. To me, it doesna��t matter which he was. What matters is the question his story raises.”


Sneaker to Sneaker in the Grand Bara

By / January 2015

“One event in Djibouti,” writes Rachel Pieh Jones, “brings together Muslims and Christians and atheists, Djiboutians and French and Americans, men and women, navy and air force and coast guard.”


Stories of the Year: Djibouti

By / December 2013

Rachel Pieh Jones runs down the stories that everyone was talking about in 2013 in the Horn of Africa, from new currencies and heavy rain to refugees and a cross-border train.