Andy Owens's Archive

Three Strings for a Song

By / October 2015

Andy Owens profiles Hayri Dev, a Turkish folk musician who has spent a lifetime playing the three-stringed baAYlama: “Within five minutes of sitting down on Deva��s back porch in GA�kA�eyaka, he reaches for his instrument.”


The Day of the Goat

By / August 2015

Over a breakfast of tomatoes, cheese, olives, bread and hot, black tea, I asked Ergun what he had in mind. He spoke a word I dona��t know, kA�rkA�m. It was the same word he had used on the phone the night before. a�?Whata��s a kA�rkA�m?a�? I asked.


The Ramadan Drummer

By / July 2015

In Denizli, Ramadan sounds like the banging of Ali Bozdag’s drum: “People hear the sound, turn on the lights and say, ‘Ah, my drummera��s here!’ It helps stir a desire for people to fast.”


When Camels Collide

By / May 2015

For months, in southwestern Turkey, fanatical camel wrestling fans, hyped on rivalry and glass after glass of Raki, flock to tournaments across the region with the hopes of glimpsing a champion. Andy Owens sends this dispatch.


A Carpet Merchant’s Lament

By / November 2014

Rugs are synonymous with Turkey. It’s been that way for hundreds for years. But Rifki Ezgin, a long-time carpet merchant in Denizli, a city in southwestern Turkey, fears the ancient art form is in danger.


The Men Behind the Muslim Call to Prayer

By / December 2013

“MevlA?t was embarrassed,” writes Andy Owens. “The other clerics had had to scramble to fill in for him. But I was heartened by the realization that the people who pronounce the call are, well, people, prone to the same early morning mishaps as the folks they sing for.”

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