A chicken kept brushing against my feet. There was the smell of spiced butter in the air. I was on a bus headed for the Omo Valley. I had a single bottle of water. I had a wedge of Laughing Cow cheese. I had laughably minimal language skills.
Chris Watts on what the sought-after Middle Eastern chokepoint looks like from an Omani enclave: “I can see Iran from here. We’ve gained some elevation, and I can just make it out over the windblown humps of sand.”