In Rome, the Holidays Get a Sour Face

In Italy, writes Chris Watts, Saint Nick plays second fiddle to La Befana, the Christmas Hag. Just don't call her a witch.

Playing in the Ruins

In Amman, a beloved playground becomes a popular tourist attraction. “When the archaeologists came to dig they would leave holes,” Yoseph said. “We had fun playing in the sand piles and refilling their holes.”

‘Where Are You Going?’

In three contemporary films from Kazakhstan, Hungary, and Chile, awe is the antidote to savagery.

Ancestral Echoes

Jarred McAfee goes in search of his last name in Scotland: “In the end, perhaps the outside elements are what unite us. Perhaps what flows from without trumps what flows from within.”

Down a Deep Well

Indian bison are the largest bovine species on earth. They can weigh up to 3,000 pounds. So what happens when one falls into a well? Chris Watts sends this dispatch from Kodaikanal.

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