“Russians,” writes Dave Hayton, “will bless your children’s children with the same passion they curse your president. But if you can swallow your taboos and slough off the political criticism, you will gain a lifelong friend.”
A chicken kept brushing against my feet. There was the smell of spiced butter in the air. I was on a bus headed for the Omo Valley. I had a single bottle of water. I had a wedge of Laughing Cow cheese. I had laughably minimal language skills.